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Knitting fingerless gloves with a lattice cable pattern

Fingerless gloves have earned a permanent place in the wardrobes of knitters across Australia, where crisp July mornings in Melbourne or Adelaide can chill your fingers before you've finished the first coffee of the day. The lattice cable adds a touch of architectural interest to what is otherwise a practical accessory, weaving crossing strands into an openwork diamond that resembles a garden trellis or a wrought-iron fence. Unlike solid cables, the lattice version uses yarn-overs and slipped stitches to create a fabric with breathable negative space, making the finished mitt well-suited to transitional seasons in Sydney or Brisbane, where the morning might start cool and warm up by lunch.

The pattern is also forgiving for knitters who are moving beyond basic cables and want to stretch their chart-reading skills. Because the lattice repeats over a small number of rows, you can memorise the rhythm after just a few repeats and knit through a glove while watching a Kylie Kwong rerun or listening to the cricket on the radio. The project works up quickly in fingering or sport weight yarn, so it's an ideal weekend make between social commitments or during a long train ride from Geelong into the city.

Below is a walk-through of the materials, techniques and finishing steps needed to make a snug pair of gloves with a polished lattice motif down the back of each hand. Whether you live in a Hobart terrace or a Perth apartment, the same method applies, and only the yarn choice varies with your local climate.

Selecting yarn and needles for an Australian winter

For a project worn on the hands, yarn selection matters more than almost any other decision. A wool-silk blend, or a soft merino from one of the Tasmanian or Victorian mills, will keep your fingers warm without overheating once you're indoors. Pure merino is a classic choice for southern states, where winter temperatures can drop below five degrees overnight; a blend with alpaca or possum adds loft and a halo that softens the appearance of the cables.

In Brisbane or coastal New South Wales, a lighter 4-ply with a touch of nylon will wear better and breathe more freely through the lattice openings. Australian knitters often choose yarn labelled with the country's voluntary country-of-origin markings, and reputable local brands list both fibre percentages and care instructions on their labels, in line with Australian Consumer Law enforced by the Australian Competition and Consumer Commission.

You'll want a set of double-pointed needles in the size recommended by your chosen yarn, plus one size smaller for the ribbed cuff to keep it snug around the wrist. A cable needle, a tapestry needle for seaming, and four stitch markers complete the toolkit. Many Australian makers source supplies from their local yarn store, or order online from the broader craft retail network that includes national chains as well as independent boutiques in suburbs like Sydney's Surry Hills or Melbourne's Fitzroy.

Materials checklist

Reading the lattice cable chart

The lattice cable is built from a small set of moves: a left cross, a right cross, and strategic yarn-overs that leave deliberate holes between the strands. Reading the chart is easier if you tape it to the inside of a folder or prop it against a coffee mug, so both hands stay free for the needles. Most charts are read from right to left on right-side rows, and left to right on wrong-side rows, with the symbol legend printed below.

If you're new to cable charts, knit a small swatch first to familiarise yourself with the rhythm. The lattice repeat is usually worked over twelve rows and four stitches, so the panel can be incorporated into the back of the hand without distorting the glove's overall fit. Counting rows between cable crosses also helps you keep track of where you are when you put the work down, which is useful for knitters who commute on Sydney's suburban network and steal ten-minute bouts of knitting between stops.

Casting on and knitting the cuff

Begin by casting on the required number of stitches using your smaller needles, and join them in the round, taking care not to twist. A two-by-two rib for the cuff gives the glove stretch and a clean edge; knit two stitches, purl two, and repeat around for roughly four centimetres, or just long enough to fit over the heel of the hand without slipping.

The first row often feels tight, particularly if you're using a wool with a firm memory. Once the rib is established, the fabric relaxes and you'll find the rhythm of the purls almost meditative. Stop and try the cuff on as you go, since gauge is the difference between a glove that stays put and one that droops at the wrist. Australian wool can be slightly less elastic than some imported yarns, so don't be afraid to go down a needle size if your rib looks loose.

Working the lattice cable panel

Once the cuff is complete, switch to your main needles and begin the hand portion. The lattice cable panel runs along the back of the hand, centred between the thumb gusset and the little-finger edge. On the first right-side round, work the first few stitches in reverse stockinette, place a marker, then work the cable chart across the panel stitches, place another marker, and finish in reverse stockinette to the end of the round.

The crossing rows are the moments that require your full attention; the rest of the time, the fabric knits up like any other project. Because the yarn-overs create small eyelets, the glove has a delicate, almost lace-like quality that suits evening wear as well as daytime. If you're knitting by the window on a winter afternoon in Adelaide, the late sun will catch the lattice and throw lovely shadows across your lap.

Shaping the thumb gusset

The thumb is worked using increases placed between two of the markers on the palm side of the glove. Most patterns call for a lifted increase or a make-one, which keeps the new stitch tidy and avoids a visible hole. You'll typically increase on every third or fourth round until the gusset reaches the desired width, then set those stitches aside on a holder or scrap yarn while you complete the hand.

Try the glove on once you've finished the increases, before committing to separating the thumb. The gusset should sit comfortably at the base of the thumb without pulling the lattice panel off-centre. If the fabric pulls, work one more increase round; if it gaps, drop one. This kind of small adjustment is part of the joy of handmade garments, and it lets you tailor the fit in ways that mass-produced gloves cannot.

Finishing the fingertips and weaving in ends

The hand continues in reverse stockinette with the lattice cable panel until you reach the base of the fingers, where you'll bind off using a stretchy method such as a sewn bind-off or a tubular cast-off. A firm bind-off can make the glove feel tight across the knuckles, so take the time to work a loose, elastic edge. Once the hand is complete, return to the held thumb stitches, pick them up around the gusset, and knit the thumb to the same length as the hand before binding off in the same stretchy fashion.

Weave in all ends with a tapestry needle, threading each tail through the backs of nearby stitches for at least five centimetres before trimming. A quick soak in cool water with a wool wash, followed by a gentle press between towels, will even out the stitches and bloom the yarn. Lay the gloves flat to dry on a towel out of direct sunlight, since harsh Australian UV can fade deeply dyed fibres over time.

Caring for your finished gloves

Wool fingerless gloves benefit from gentle handling and infrequent washing. A cool hand wash with a pH-neutral wool detergent is usually enough to refresh them, and a brief roll in a towel removes excess moisture without agitating the cables. Store the gloves flat in a drawer rather than hanging them, as gravity can stretch the ribbed cuff over time.

If a stitch does catch and break, repairing it promptly will prevent the lattice cable from unravelling further. A few minutes with a crochet hook can re-establish the crossed strands, and the repair will be almost invisible against the textured fabric. With a little care, a pair of lattice-cable gloves knit on a chilly Hobart weekend will become a favourite accessory for many winters to come.

Yarn type Weight Suggested needle Warmth Cable definition
Pure merino 4-ply Fingering 3.25 mm Medium Crisp, clear crosses
Merino-silk blend Fingering 3.00 mm Light to medium Soft sheen, gentle definition
Merino-alpaca blend Sport 3.50 mm High Fuzzy, haloed surface
Nylon-blend sock yarn Fingering 2.75 mm Low to medium Very crisp, machine-washable

Care tips for long wear

The complete pattern, along with swatch instructions and tutorial videos, is published at krwknitwear.com, where you can also browse their library of cables, lace and colourwork projects.