How to Join New Yarn in Crochet with an Invisible Knot
Changing yarn is a routine part of crochet, whether you are adding a second ball to a large blanket, replacing a colour in a striped jumper, or continuing after a yarn break. A bulky join can leave a lump that shows through the fabric, while a loose join may unravel during washing or wearing.
An invisible knot gives the new strand a secure starting point with very little extra thickness. It is especially useful for smooth yarns, cotton, wool blends and projects where the wrong side may still be visible, such as scarves, shawls and openwork garments.
The method is simple once you understand which strand belongs to the old yarn and which belongs to the new one. Australian crocheters should also check whether a pattern uses UK or US terminology, since local patterns commonly use UK terms: a UK double crochet is the same stitch as a US single crochet.
| Joining method | Best for | Appearance | Security |
|---|---|---|---|
| Invisible knot | Most everyday crochet projects | Low-profile | High when tails are woven in |
| Russian join | Smooth yarn and colour changes | Very neat, no knot | High |
| Felted join | Pure wool or feltable animal fibres | Nearly seamless | High after felting |
| Overlap and crochet over | Quick changes and textured work | May be slightly thicker | Moderate |
| Sewn join | Delicate or polished garments | Very tidy | High with careful finishing |
Prepare The Yarn And Crochet
Before tying anything, stop with enough of the old yarn attached to complete the next stitch comfortably. A tail of around 10–15 centimetres is usually workable, although a longer tail is easier to weave in securely. Cut the old yarn cleanly rather than leaving a frayed or crushed end.
Lay the old and new strands beside the work so they do not twist around one another. Identify the tail of the new yarn, then hold it alongside the working yarn that leads to the ball. This distinction matters: the knot is made with the new yarn’s tail around the old strand, then tightened in the correct direction.
Choose a joining point that will be easy to hide. The end of a row, the side seam of a garment or the back of a motif is often suitable. For a highly visible area, consider finishing the current stitch with the new colour instead of joining halfway through a completed stitch. This produces a cleaner transition and keeps the colour change aligned with the stitch structure.
Tension deserves attention at this stage. A tight knot can pucker the fabric, while a loose one may slide apart. Keep the crochet resting naturally on the table or in your hands, rather than stretching the fabric as you pull.
Tie The Invisible Knot
Hold the old yarn horizontally, with its loose tail pointing towards you. Take the tail of the new yarn and place it over the old yarn, forming a small loop. Pass the new tail under the old strand and through that loop, as if beginning a simple overhand knot, but do not tighten it fully.
Now take the old yarn’s tail and repeat the process around the new yarn. Place the old tail over the new strand, pass it underneath, and bring it through the loop. You should have two loose knots, each made around the other yarn. Keep both knots close together without pulling them tight yet.
Pull the long working end of the old yarn in one direction and the long working end of the new yarn in the opposite direction. The two knots will slide towards one another and lock together in the centre. This is the key movement: the knots tighten against each other, rather than sitting separately along the yarn.
Trim the four tails only after testing the join. Leave at least 5–8 centimetres on each end for weaving in. If the yarn is slippery, such as mercerised cotton or bamboo, keep slightly longer tails and handle the join gently until it is secured inside the fabric.
Add The New Strand To Your Work
Once the knot is formed, continue crocheting with the new yarn as the working strand. Hold the join behind the fabric for the first few stitches. If the knot feels bulky, position it on the wrong side or within a thicker section of the pattern.
For a colour change, complete the final yarn-over of the previous stitch with the new yarn. For example, when working a UK treble crochet, begin the final stitch with the old colour, then use the new colour for the last yarn-over and pull-through. This places the new shade neatly at the top of the stitch.
When joining a fresh ball of the same colour, match the direction and tension of the existing yarn. Some yarns have a subtle halo or twist that looks different when reversed. A quick test with a few stitches can show whether the new strand blends naturally with the old one.
Australian makers often work with cotton for warm-weather tops, market bags and beach wraps, especially in coastal areas such as Brisbane, Perth and Sydney. Cotton can be smooth and less forgiving than wool, so an invisible knot should be tightened firmly but not aggressively. For winter garments in Melbourne, Hobart or Canberra, wool and wool blends usually grip the knot more readily.
A neat join can make a real difference in accessories that receive frequent handling. If you enjoy making textured bands and wearable pieces, the shaping principles in this guide to a cabled headband also demonstrate why stable tension and tidy finishing matter.
Secure The Ends Neatly
The knot is only part of the finish. Weaving in the tails anchors the join inside the stitches and prevents friction from gradually loosening it. Use a blunt tapestry needle that is large enough for the yarn but small enough to pass through the fabric without stretching it.
Thread one tail and weave it through the backs of several stitches in one direction. Then change direction and pass it through a different route. A short back-and-forth path is more secure than one straight line, particularly in blankets, socks and cuffs that are washed often.
For a dense fabric, split the plies gently with the needle instead of pushing directly between large gaps. This helps the tail stay in place without creating a visible ridge. In lace or mesh crochet, follow the line of the stitches and avoid pulling the tail tightly, as this can distort an open motif.
After weaving, snip the end close to the surface without cutting the surrounding stitches. Rub the fabric lightly between your fingers to settle the fibres. Wool may grip and disguise the tail naturally, while cotton can benefit from a slightly longer woven path.
Checks Before Trimming
- Tug both working strands gently to confirm that the two knots lock together.
- Crochet several stitches and inspect the join from both sides.
- Check that the fabric is flat and that the tension has not tightened around the knot.
- Leave longer tails in slippery yarns, fine lace yarns and frequently washed projects.
Reliable Finishing Habits
- Join new yarn at a side edge or inside a seam whenever the pattern allows.
- Use a matching yarn colour for the woven tails in high-visibility areas.
- Record the joining method in your project notes for future repairs.
- Wash a small swatch first if the yarn is unfamiliar or likely to felt.
Fix Common Joining Problems
If the knot slides apart, the two individual knots were probably tied in the same direction or one was pulled tighter before the other was made. Undo the join and repeat it slowly, keeping both loops open until the long strands are pulled in opposite directions. The finished knot should feel compact rather than elongated.
A visible bump usually comes from placing too much yarn inside the knot or trimming the tails too close before the join has been tested. You can often reduce the bulk by loosening the knot, spreading the strands slightly and repositioning it behind the fabric. Avoid cutting first; once the tails are too short, repair becomes more difficult.
If the fabric develops a gap, the new yarn may have been joined too far from the active stitch, or the first few stitches were worked with uneven tension. Undo back to the join and crochet over one tail for a few stitches while carrying the other tail along the wrong side. This temporary support can be useful in broad rows and granny-square projects.
For very slippery fibres, the invisible knot may not be the best option. A Russian join, a sewn join or a carefully overlapped join can provide extra security. Pure wool offers another possibility: a felted join, where the fibres are dampened and rubbed together, but this should only be used with fibres that can felt.
Practise on a scrap before using the method in an heirloom project. Local yarn shops and craft retailers such as Spotlight and Lincraft often stock affordable acrylic or wool-blend yarn for testing. A small swatch lets you compare the join under tension, after trimming and after a gentle wash.
With regular use, the movement becomes quick and almost invisible in the finished fabric. The best result comes from combining a well-formed knot, balanced tension and thoughtful weaving-in. That combination keeps colour changes smooth, repairs discreet and handmade crochet comfortable to wear or use.