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How to make a slip knot and chain for crochet beginners

Learning to crochet often begins with two small motions: securing the yarn to your hook and turning that starting loop into a chain. The slip knot is the adjustable bridge between your yarn and hook, while the foundation chain gives your first stitches somewhere to sit. Getting these motions comfortable early makes every later stitch feel less mysterious, so a little repetition is more useful than trying to memorise a whole pattern at once.

Many Australian beginners meet yarn labelled 8ply, DK or 4ply rather than the sport and light weights common in US instructions. In Melbourne, Sydney, Adelaide and smaller regional towns, craft shops, community groups and online pattern sellers serve a market that values clear, repeatable guidance. “Have a go” is solid advice here: make a loose practice chain, check each link, and undo mistakes without treating them as failure. You can change the tension later; what matters now is learning how the yarn behaves.

The two foundations at a glance

Before your hands move, it helps to know what each foundation is doing. A slip knot is only a starting point, whereas a foundation chain is the first row of crochet. That distinction matters because the slip knot normally does not count as a stitch, and the chain does. The comparison below keeps the roles separate and highlights the small faults that commonly cause frustration.

Feature Slip knot Foundation chain
Purpose Makes an adjustable starting loop Forms the first row of linked stitches
Creation The working yarn passes through a loose loop The working yarn is repeatedly wrapped and pulled through
Stitch count Usually not counted Each V-shaped link counts as one chain stitch
Main fault Pulling the tail too hard can cinch it Uneven loops, missed strands or twisted links
Best next step Place it securely but comfortably on the hook Count the links and practise consistent tension

Think of the slip knot as a temporary handhold. It can be loosened, adjusted or removed without cutting the yarn, which makes it much friendlier than a rigid knot. A chain is different: each yarn-over and pull-through adds a new loop to the row. Those loops lean on one another, so uneven pressure at the start can travel through the chain.

Both foundations should feel controlled but never pinched. Aim to keep the working yarn slightly taut, not stretched, and use your fingers rather than your teeth or the hook shaft to tighten a loop. Australian wool blends can have more spring than smooth acrylic, while cotton tends to show tension clearly, so the same visual pressure may feel different across brands.

Choosing materials for easy practice

Choose a smooth, medium-weight yarn for your first chain. A 4ply or DK cotton or cotton-blend in a familiar 100g ball or hank is easy to see and forgiving, while acrylic is inexpensive and widely stocked. Check the band for the recommended hook and keep that hook nearby, since pattern tension can change with different yarn and hook combinations. For online purchases, compare the metreage and fibre content rather than relying on the product photo alone.

Local listings increasingly use the term crochet hook, while older books may call it a crochet needle, so searching both terms can help when shopping for supplies. A 4.0 to 5.0 mm aluminium hook often gives beginners a useful balance of control and movement, although the yarn label should guide you. Choose a hook that glides without catching and a handle that sits comfortably in your grip.

Set up somewhere with support for your forearms, such as a firm cushion on a kitchen table, and keep both feet supported. Crochet should not require a painful hunched posture. People managing lower-back or nerve discomfort can adapt their sessions and explore resources such as gentle movements for sciatica, though persistent pain should be assessed by a qualified health professional. In winter, a shawl or scarf can make practice appealing in Hobart or Melbourne, while lightweight cotton will be more comfortable in northern Australia.

Forming a slip knot without the tug

Begin with the tail end facing you and the working yarn extending in the opposite direction. Cross the working strand over the tail to make a loose loop, then pick up that loop and slide the working strand through its centre. You should now have a single starting loop, with the tail emerging from one side and the working yarn from the other. Keep every movement loose at first so you can see how the strands are arranged.

Place the starting loop on the hook and gently snug the crossing point with your thumb and forefinger. Pull the tail and working yarn in opposite directions until the loop fits the hook without springing closed. If you pull only the tail, the knot may cinch and trap the working yarn, leaving you to work it loose again. Leave around 15 to 20 cm of tail at the beginning so it cannot slip out before you have secured the yarn.

If the loop still feels awkward, use a hook-assisted method. Make an open loop, insert the hook through it, catch the working yarn and draw it through. The new loop will sit on the hook with the tail crossing inside it. Tighten only enough to control the yarn, and check that the working strand can slide freely. Practice making and releasing the loop several times before adding a chain, because this adjustment becomes much harder once several stitches are hanging from it.

Working a smooth foundation chain

Once the slip knot sits comfortably, prepare to yarn over. Hold the working yarn over the fingers of your non-hook hand and keep the loop near the hook throat. Turn the hook so its groove can catch the strand, wrap the yarn over the hook and draw it through the loop already on the hook. That first pull-through creates your first chain stitch and leaves a new loop ready for the next one.

Continue with the same motion, moving your grip slightly closer to the hook each time so every new loop is about the same size as the previous one. Count the V-shaped links along the upper edge, remembering that the original slip knot is not a chain stitch. A practice of 10 to 15 links is enough to reveal where you are gripping too tightly or allowing the yarn to sag. When making a longer chain for a scarf or border, measure the yarn and check your count before joining a new ball.

Most beginner chains split because the working yarn is pulled through unevenly or because the hook catches only one side of the strand. A twisted loop can resemble a proper chain, so flatten each section gently and inspect the V shapes. If the chain curls sharply or spirals, unravel it before continuing rather than adding more tension. When you reach the end of a row, make the number of turning chains required by your pattern before turning your work.

A practical routine for confident practice

Turn the foundations into a repeatable practice routine that fits a busy week. Australian crochet groups often exchange progress through social media, online classes and local meet-ups, so sharing a clear photo of an even chain can be more useful than posting an uncertain finished object. The aim is controlled yarn tension and recognisable links, not speed. A calm ten-minute session can build more confidence than a long session with a tight grip and sore fingers.

Once you can make an even chain, a simple scarf or shawl becomes a manageable first project. For a knitted companion piece, follow KRW Knitwear Studio’s guide to adding knitted fringe and finish the edge neatly. Crochet and knitting use different techniques, but the same planning principle applies: measure the main fabric, make the fringe consistent and secure every end.

These checkpoints provide a useful self-check before moving on to more advanced crochet patterns: