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How to read a crochet pattern with multiple sizes

Crochet patterns written for a range of body sizes have become the standard across Australian pattern publishers, from independent designers in Melbourne to international labels selling through local yarn shops. A single PDF you purchase might describe sizes from an 80 cm chest to a 130 cm chest, all within the same set of instructions. At first glance, the brackets, slashes and nested numbers can feel like a puzzle, but the system is actually quite logical once you understand the conventions.

Most Australian makers first encounter a multi-size pattern when shopping at Spotlight, browsing Etsy, or downloading free patterns from local designers. The format is designed to save paper, reduce printing costs, and let you choose the size that fits your recipient without buying a second pattern. Whether you are crocheting a baby cardigan for a friend in Adelaide or a winter jumper for yourself ahead of a Hobart winter, learning to read these patterns confidently will open up a much wider library of projects. Beginners often find that the pattern library and tutorials walk through the basics step by step, which is a useful companion when working through an unfamiliar format.

The key is to slow down before you make your first chain. Highlight your chosen size, tick off each instruction as you go, and treat the other sizes as visual clutter that does not apply to your work. With a little practice, what looks like a wall of numbers becomes a clear, friendly set of directions.

Why patterns list several sizes

Designers list multiple sizes in one pattern because the maths of shaping a garment does not change much between sizes. Adding or removing stitches, lengthening or shortening a section, and adjusting sleeve depth are usually simple variations on the same theme. By presenting all sizes together, the designer only has to write the instructions once, which keeps the price of the pattern lower for everyone.

In Australia, this approach also reflects the way many of us shop. A pattern purchased from a local maker at the Finders Keepers market in Sydney or downloaded from a Brisbane-based designer might be used to make gifts for several people over the years. One well-written multi-size pattern can serve a whole family, from a newborn in Perth to a tall teenager in Canberra.

There is also a sustainability angle. Producing one document rather than several reduces digital storage, printing, and shipping emissions. For makers who already feel uneasy about the environmental cost of their hobby, a single multi-size PDF is a small but meaningful way to tread more lightly.

Understanding size brackets and parentheses

The most common way to list multiple sizes in a crochet pattern is with brackets, parentheses, or both. The smallest size usually appears first, followed by medium, large, and so on. When you see something like "ch 10 (12, 14, 16) sts," the number in brackets corresponds to the size you are making. Always check the size key at the start of the pattern, as some designers reverse the order or list sizes by finished measurement rather than by chest.

A second layer of information often appears in parentheses or after a slash. For example, "dc 2 (3, 4, 5) sts; 4 (5, 6, 7) rows." The first set of numbers describes stitches, and the second describes rows. When brackets and parentheses appear together, brackets usually indicate the smaller sizes and parentheses the larger ones, or the designer may use them to separate stitch counts from row counts.

Australian patterns sometimes use a slightly different convention when published in metric measurements, which can confuse makers who learned from American or British books. For instance, a designer writing for a local audience may quote finished chest measurements in centimetres and stitch counts using the metric hook size printed on the handle. Getting comfortable with one convention will help you switch between sources smoothly, and a quick glance at the legend on page one is always worth the time.

Choosing your size before you start

Before you cast on, measure the person you are making for and compare those numbers to the finished measurements in the pattern. Finished measurements are the dimensions of the garment once it has been crocheted and blocked, not the body measurements of the wearer. Most patterns include a small amount of ease, which is the difference between your body and the finished garment, so a snug-fit jumper might list a 95 cm chest for a body that measures 90 cm.

Below is a quick reference for typical finished chest measurements in a women's sweater pattern designed for an Australian audience. These numbers assume a standard amount of positive ease for a relaxed-fit garment.

Pattern size Body chest (cm) Finished chest (cm) Suggested ease (cm)
XS / 8 80 90 10
S / 10 85 96 11
M / 12 92 104 12
L / 14 100 114 14
XL / 16 110 126 16
2XL / 18 120 138 18

If you are between sizes, think about how you like your clothes to fit. A maker in Brisbane crocheting a light cotton cardigan for summer might prefer a relaxed fit, while someone in Hobart planning a wool jumper for winter often chooses something closer to the body for warmth. Local yarn stores in Melbourne and Adelaide, such as Morris & Sons or the indie shops in Fitzroy, often have staff who can help you swatch and decide.

It can be tempting to choose a size based on the number of stitches rather than the finished measurement, especially if the maths feels easier at smaller numbers. Resist this urge. The stitch count is just one tool, and the fit of the finished piece depends on your tension, the yarn you choose, and how much the fabric blocks out. Always start with body measurements and work back to the pattern.

Decoding stitch counts and repeats

Many multi-size patterns include a sentence such as "pattern is worked over a multiple of 6 (7, 8, 9) sts plus 2." This tells you how many chains to start with for each size. The number inside the brackets is your size. Multiples refer to the repeat section of the pattern, which you work across the row. If the smallest size uses a multiple of 6 and you are making the medium, you use a multiple of 7, and so on.

When a pattern says "work 5 (6, 7) patt reps," it means you repeat the bracketed section of stitches five, six, or seven times across the row, depending on your size. Designers often help you by writing the largest size's repeat count in parentheses, or by bolding the relevant number. A highlighter pen in your size's colour is a simple way to keep track if you are reading from a printed pattern.

For projects that use colour changes, understanding the repeat structure becomes even more important. If you are working with a gradient pack, the colour shift technique relies on consistent stitch counts across rows, so reading the multiple correctly is the first step. Misreading a 7 as a 1 can throw the entire sequence off and leave you with a panel that no longer lines up at the seam.

Working with gauge for different sizes

Gauge is the number of stitches and rows you produce over a 10 cm square, and it is the single most important number in any crochet pattern. Multi-size patterns are usually written so that the same stitch pattern produces different finished widths depending on how many repeats you work. The height of the piece, however, depends almost entirely on your tension.

Australian wool can behave differently from the yarn the designer used, particularly if you are substituting a local brand like Bendigo Woollen Mills for a recommendation from overseas. A 10 cm swatch in a 14-ply wool will look very different from one in an 8-ply cotton, even with the same hook. Always swatch in the yarn you plan to use, wash and block the swatch the same way you will treat the finished garment, and measure honestly. A 5 mm difference in 10 cm becomes a 10 cm difference across a chest panel.

If your gauge is off, you have two choices: change hook size, or change the size you are making. Tight crocheters often need to go up a hook size or two, while loose crocheters go down. Most Australian yarn labels print the recommended hook on the band, but this is only a starting point. Treat it as a guide, not a rule.

Adjusting length and yarn quantities

Multi-size patterns often list yarn quantities for each size, either in the materials section or in a quick-reference table near the start. These numbers assume you will use the same yarn weight, hook, and tension as the designer. If you are making a longer version, or if your tension is looser than expected, you will need more yarn. Buying an extra ball from a local shop like Bunnings, which stocks a limited but reliable range, is cheaper than running out halfway through a sleeve.

Length is usually easier to adjust than width. To make a garment longer, simply add more rows to the body or sleeves, working the same stitch pattern until you reach the desired measurement. To make it shorter, do the opposite. For jumpers and cardigans, the most common customisation is body length, especially for taller makers in Sydney or shorter makers in regional Victoria.

Yarn substitution is where the budget maths can shift quickly. A 200 g ball of Australian merino might cost around AUD 28 at a local shop, while a comparable imported yarn is often cheaper but behaves differently in the hand. If you are substituting, swatch first, and add 10 to 15 percent to the yarn quantity listed for your size. A small surplus is far better than discovering at the cast-off row that you cannot finish. For makers who would rather skip the maths entirely, a t-shirt refashioning approach offers a faster route to a custom fit without starting from yarn.

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