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Knitting a cashmere cowl with a simple stockinette and a garter edge

A cashmere cowl is a compact neck warmer that gives warmth without the weight of a full jumper. This version uses a smooth stockinette panel, finished with narrow garter-stitch bands at both ends. The result is soft, reversible in appearance and quick to shape: once the rectangle is knitted, joining the side edges turns it into a generous loop.

Keeping the construction simple makes it especially suitable for a first cashmere project. There is no complicated shaping, only a firm cast-on, two short edges, an even stocking-stitch centre and a neat seam. It also leaves plenty of room to choose yarn based on what is available in Australian shops, craft markets and online fibre stores rather than following a rigid shopping list.

Plan the shape and choose your yarn

Decide how generous the finished loop should be before casting on. A panel about 55 cm wide and 27–28 cm long, before seaming, will sit comfortably around an adult neck and overlap slightly at the front. The stockinette body provides drape, while the garter edges resist curling and remain stable when the cowl is folded twice.

For this gauge, plan on 180–220 metres of two-ply DK-weight 100% cashmere. Australian yarn listings often sell 100 g balls or hanks with metreage stated on the label, so compare the length rather than assuming every 100 g ball contains the same amount. Independent dye houses and makers at weekend markets frequently offer small-batch colourways; prices displayed by Australian online retailers are normally GST-inclusive. Cashmere is usually imported, while locally produced wool is more often merino, making the fibre label worth checking.

For a matching accessory or a structured beginner lesson, the patterns and classes from KRW Knitwear Studio provide a useful companion to this small project. A single 100 g hank may be enough for the stated size, but a second colour can be useful for a contrast edge if the chosen yarn is sold in 50 g hanks.

Gather materials and check your gauge

Before the main panel, collect the yarn, tools and finishing supplies so interruptions do not interrupt the rhythm of the knitting.

The second preparation check is gauge, since matching the stated tension matters more than a particular needle size.

With 22 stitches over 10 cm, 120 stitches will measure about 54.5 cm before seaming. The sample size below uses eight garter rows at each end and 59 rows of stockinette, giving a finished rectangle close to 55 by 27 cm. If your row gauge differs, adjust the body-row count so the final length still suits your yarn.

Work the lower garter-stitch edge

Make a firm but comfortable long-tail cast-on and place 120 stitches on the needle. If using a circular needle, keep the working yarn at the back and allow the stitches to slide freely rather than bunching them at the tip. The cast-on should feel secure, as it will carry the lower edge of the cowl.

Work eight rows of garter stitch for the lower band. Knit every stitch on the first right-side row, then purl every stitch on the second, alternating until all eight rows are complete. Although each row looks plain when viewed from one side, the alternating bumps form the familiar horizontal ridges. This edge is firmer than stockinette and helps the cowl sit neatly rather than rolling outward.

Check the band after every second row and gently undo any uneven loops. Consistent tension matters more at the edges, where a tight cast-on can pull the fabric inward. A relaxed grip and even pressure across the needles will usually produce a cleaner line than trying to correct each small irregularity later.

Knit the stockinette centre

Begin the centre panel on row nine. On right-side rows, knit all stitches; on wrong-side rows, purl all stitches. Continue for 59 rows, working the piece flat rather than joining it into a circle. Slipped markers will help you identify the first and last stitch of every row, especially as stockinette makes the right side easy to lose track of.

Keep the needles in the same position in your hands and let the fabric move naturally along them. Avoid stretching each stitch, which can make the finished panel narrower than the blocked measurements. Count rows on the row counter rather than relying on the ridge count, because stockinette has few obvious horizontal markers.

There are no increases, decreases or neckline shaping in this design. If the panel begins to feel too wide, resist adding stitches and check your gauge again; if it feels too short, continue with the second yarn rather than altering the stitch count. Keep any yarn join away from the centre of the front.

For the upper band, work eight alternating rows, beginning with a purl row on the wrong side and ending with a knit row on the right side. Use a stretchy knit bind-off so the firm garter edge retains enough flexibility to sit comfortably around the neck.

Block the panel and join the seam

Block the knitted rectangle before joining it so the side edges can be matched accurately. Soak it gently in lukewarm water with a small amount of mild wool wash, then press out the water without wringing or pulling. Lift it onto a dry towel, roll the towel to remove moisture and lay the panel flat under its original measurements.

Pin the panel to its planned width and length, using the swatch rather than a rigid ruler if the cashmere has relaxed. Let it dry completely in a shaded, ventilated place. A slight ripple is normal in stockinette; it usually settles as the fibres dry and should not be forced into perfect straight lines.

After the panel is dry, place the right sides together and join the long edges with a mattress stitch. Work in pairs of corresponding loops, keeping the seam firm enough to disappear but loose enough to preserve the drape. Put the join at the back of the neck, then inspect the cowl from both sides and adjust any uneven section from inside.

Wear and care across Australian seasons

Local weather makes the cowl particularly adaptable. Melbourne can shift from a crisp afternoon to a cold, windy evening, while Sydney's milder coastal winter often needs only light neck warmth. Brisbane's humid subtropical climate favours breathable 100% cashmere over acrylic, and Perth's dry evenings and heated interiors make wool-rich fibres a comfortable alternative to synthetic blends.

The two-layer fold works well over a collared shirt or under a coat, and the long stockinette section can also be worn loosely as a shallow scarf. Try the cowl before blocking the final position, then adjust the overlap to suit your clothing. Avoid pulling it into a tight roll, which can stress the side seam and flatten the soft drape.

Hand washing is safest for cashmere. Use lukewarm water, a small amount of wool wash and no rubbing; do not use a dryer or fabric softener. Dry the cowl flat, reshape it gently and store it folded in a clean breathable bag. In Brisbane's humidity, make sure it is completely dry before storage, and check Australian wool cupboards periodically for moth activity.

Adapt colour, yarn and finishing

Colour can change the character without changing the method. A pale neutral against a black coat creates a clean winter frame, while a saturated jewel tone can give a plain sweater more focus. For a two-colour version, keep the garter bands in one shade and the stockinette panel in another, taking care to repeat the same gauge for both yarns.

Try a four-ply yarn for a thicker, more structured cowl, or use a fine merino-cashmere blend if you want a lighter accessory suited to Sydney or Brisbane. With either change, make a fresh swatch and wash it before casting on. The stitch count may need to change, but the simple edge-and-panel construction remains the same.

Looking beyond standard stitch charts, a broader design source such as Amir Zhan Tassov can help you notice colour relationships, proportion and texture before committing to a full hank. The final result is a versatile cowl whose smooth centre and stable edges do most of the decorative work.